Taman Negara National Park covering an area of 4,343 km2 is located in 3 States of the Peninsular Malaysia namely Terengganu, Kelantan and Pahang. The park is one of the world’s oldest tropical rainforests dating back to over 130 million years. It is home to a vast variety and diversity of animals, flora and fauna.
Our much-anticipated trip started at Kuala Tembeling Jetty in Jerantut Pahang, one of the entry points. We went onto a 16 – 20 seater long boat that took us on our journey through the thick jungle where at every turn provides you with a different landscape view. However, there are a number of man-made structures along the way like concrete steps of jetties, some of which are no longer in use and a high-tension power cable tower. We were excited thinking that we are on a journey to natural virgin jungle but those structures had us reminded that we are still very much close to civilization.
After a 3 hour boat ride, we reached Kuala Tahan. This is one of the more popular entry points to the National park where various activities like jungle trekking, canopy walk, rapids shooting and 4 x 4 safaris are available. There are quite a number of floating restaurants on the riverbank where you can have your meals and book your activities. Rainforest resort is one of the popular resorts visitors and tourists frequent, the other being Woodlands resort which we tried to book but got no response from them, thus we opted for Persona resort since Rainforest was fully booked then.
Persona resort is located about 5 minutes’ drive from the floating restaurant and transportation is provided for in our package for the many trips we need to transvers for some of our meals in one of the floating restaurants and also for the activities that we booked for. It is a shame that the owner / management of Persona resort did not repair the jetty next to the resort, which would have saved us and the many guests of the resort the trouble of having the boat ride further upstream and then take a van / pick-up to the resort.
Persona resort is clean on the outside and having to go through a hanging bridge to our chalet was cool. However, we were disappointed with the cleanliness of the chalet where some of us found cockroaches and ants in the drawers and floor. The towel is very thin and looked like it has been overused. The same goes for the mattress cover and blanket. There is no TV, kettle and phone, so if there are any requests or complaints, you have to walk all the way to the reception. It will be daunting for old folks or young ladies walking at night and do pray it does not rain in any emergency.
The next disappointment we had was breakfast. It was part of the package and after a long journey there and practically no supper the night before, we were looking forward to some nice breakfast before we start our adventure of the day. Breakfast consists of only bread, eggs, margarine, and variety of jams, coffee and tea. When our group came at 7:45am, the margarine, tea and eggs were finished. We had to ask before the kitchen helper replenished the tea, margarine and speedily cooked a very plain fried rice with eggs. Our lunch and dinner were in one of the floating restaurants and it consists of mainly 1 vegetable, 1 meat, eggs or soup with rice to go with it. Ice tea or syrup comes with the package with unlimited refills.
Our first adventure was a night walk through what looks like a secondary jungle next to the 5 star Mutiara resort on the other side of the river. After paying for the entry fee at the park ranger office and a briefing by our guide, we started the short walk along a stretch of plastic platforms that are not properly maintained. For the non-adventurous, you will definitely not be impressed. But for those that love the nocturnal insects, then there is an abundance. We were indeed very fortunate to come across 2 Tapirs that walked right towards us and onto the platform. Our local guide told us that the Tapirs are actually brought up by the local forestry department and therefore are used to the presence of humans. At the end of the trek, we came to a 2 storey look-out tower and it was here that we were lucky to have spotted 2 Samba deers, although they were quite a distance away but it was just as fascinating especially when they don’t seem to be bothered by the many torch lights shining in their direction.
The next morning we were taken to what was advertised as the longest canopy walkway in the world. A short longboat ride further upstream and a short trek uphill got us to a wooden double storey structure. Entrance tickets and cold drinks are sold here. The walkway is built on solid aluminum ladder, plastic and plank for platform and cables, ropes and netting on both sides as support. There are also rangers stationed at some of the tree platforms to see to it that not too many people get onto the walkway canopy at any one time. Upon completing the walkway, it was very clear that we were all misled by the advertisement, as the canopy walkway in Mulu National Park is clearly very much longer than the one here.
After the canopy walk, our local native guide told us that a 2 – 3 hour hike would take us to Bukit Terisek, a lookout point to Gunung Tahan, the highest mountain in the Peninsular Malaysia. However, it only took us about half hour to get there. Another misrepresentation?
A supposedly 7 rapids shooting boat trip upstream as our next activity after lunch got us all eager and excited and we all came prepared to get wet and all. The rapids were mild, maybe at level 1 to 2 in our local white water rafting ratings and after going through maybe 4 -5 mild rapids, before we even got warmed up, it was all over. What a big letdown. The only consolation we got, especially for the kids that came along with us, was probably the Tarzan swing that provided us with some adrenalin rush swinging out to the river, letting go of the rope and dropping down at the deep part of the river.
To sum it all, Taman Negara is definitely oversold. Tourists and local visitors alike who have heard or seen the advertisements but not been to Taman Negara would seriously be disappointed. Instead of pristine jungle, clear water streams, vast variety of animals, flora and fauna, all they can expect are Muddy River due to upstream logging activities, practically no animals to be seen and guides who don’t explain the range of plants or flowers in the jungle. Therefore, to any layman, it is just another plant or flower.
Written by Justin Hong